"Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo" (rustyvandura)
04/16/2018 at 23:03 • Filed to: None
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"Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo" (rustyvandura)
04/16/2018 at 23:03 • Filed to: None | 1
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!!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!!
Does anybody have any experience with this? Looks like a Tire Slime re-vamp to me.
HammerheadFistpunch
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
04/16/2018 at 23:09 |
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nope nope nope nope nope. Its corrosive to aluminum. Ask me how I know.
I had two rims literally explode while hanging from the ceiling because of it. this is what I use.
https://www.amazon.com/Orange-Seal-Tubeless-Sealant-118-3/dp/B00BGLVCRW
If you feel like trying stans or it will be on steel, just mix mold builder latex, propylene glycol and water.
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HammerheadFistpunch
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
04/16/2018 at 23:28 |
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As for sealing the rim, you can either buy a smaller diameter tube and stretch it over the rim, seat the tire and then cut off the excess, or use gorilla tape and the a stans valve stem kit. I use the later, seems to be working really well. The tape that comes with the kit is what leaks and gets to the aluminum that isn’t well coated (in between the walls) and destroys it.
LOREM IPSUM
> HammerheadFistpunch
04/16/2018 at 23:29 |
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Seems like a gross oversight on ol’ Stans part.
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HammerheadFistpunch
> LOREM IPSUM
04/16/2018 at 23:31 |
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stans was backyard science that grew faster than the real science could catch it. they’ve since changed the formula I understand but I also hear it’s no good.
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LOREM IPSUM
> HammerheadFistpunch
04/16/2018 at 23:39 |
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Good to know! I plan to do some cycling this year, for the first time in like 8 years, as I finally picked up a bike for my wife and a trailer for the baby. Everything is on tubes at present, but if I ever go tubeless I’ll do lots of homework first. Not sure how well tubeless works on skinnyish cyclocross tires anyway, but knowledge is powah!
jminer
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
04/16/2018 at 23:40 |
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While I haven’t messed with pedal powered bikes, I’ve dealt a lot with old motorcycles. You can run a tubeless tire on a tubed rim easy, just run a tube of the right size in it.
If the bead seats and holds together for many years of regular use on everything from highway to gravel it should work on a bike as well.
You have to get the tube size just right, but it’ll work no problem.
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HammerheadFistpunch
> LOREM IPSUM
04/16/2018 at 23:42 |
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my 2 cents? put some sealant in the tubes (you just need a valve core tool) of the trailer and get pre-sealed tubes for the cyclocross bike if it will be used as a commuter. You probably don’t want to go full tubeless because of the pressures.
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Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
> HammerheadFistpunch
04/16/2018 at 23:47 |
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Dang. Isn’t this just Tire Slime in a different color and formulation?
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HammerheadFistpunch
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
04/16/2018 at 23:48 |
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nope, tire slime is alcohol and shredded newspaper (more or less)
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Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
> HammerheadFistpunch
04/16/2018 at 23:54 |
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I just bought this wheel set on Ebay. I have a Cannondale Bad Boy with a Ultra Fatty front fork and 700 street tires that I use for commuting. The boys at church are having a high adventure mountain bike expedition later this summer and I thought I’d do the training rides with them.
I have never gone mountain biking before. Well, once a million years ago I sort of did, but I’m not counting that and the bike was a POC.
My friend says, “Go tubeless; everybody is.” Me? I could care less, but I’ve gotten a puncture or two from goat heads over the years and I’d rather avoid that.
As for tires, I’d lean away from the total nobby thing toward hybrid or BMX, but I really have no clue. My idea is to have two sets of wheels for flexibility.
Got any thoughts to offer?
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LOREM IPSUM
> HammerheadFistpunch
04/16/2018 at 23:55 |
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Sounds like good advice. Won’t be doing any commuting, just for fun and fitness, but flatting sucks regardless.
I tend to run high pressures, like 100+psi on 28c’s w/ standard tubes because I’m a clyde, so the lower potential pressures of true tubeless in the interest of comfort would possibly be lost on me... And a burping front tire scares the crap out of me. As it is, when decending all I can think about is how bad it would suck if the fork were to just collapse. Last thing I need is to lose a tire.
Currently have 28c Conti gatorskins on my Poprad, and some even skinnier Schwalbes on my wifes DoubleCross. Might go wider on both for this season though. I’m way fatter than I was the last time I rode, wife hasn’t ridden since she was a kid, so a bit more rubber might not hurt... Especially since they discovered wider tires somehow have less rolling resistance, apparently, despite my mind saying otherwise.
Highlander-Datsuns are Forever
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
04/16/2018 at 23:56 |
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The kit sucks, if you go tubeless just gorilla tape the rim and use a tubless valve. As for sealent, Stan’s is okay orange seal has been more popular these last few years. I use what ever I have, currently have used up my Stan’s and have a bottle of orange seal on the way.
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Highlander-Datsuns are Forever
> HammerheadFistpunch
04/16/2018 at 23:57 |
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I kind of remember this a few years ago. I am all orange seal now. Stans dries up fast too.
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HammerheadFistpunch
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
04/16/2018 at 23:59 |
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oh Richey, thats a name I’ve not heard in a long time. Brings me back.
For you I don’t think tubeless would have advantages to be honest. My advice would be the same as Haadkoe, get tubes and put some sealant in them or buy pre-sealed tubes from stans or other. Will solve the goathead issue and not give you the troubles of tubeless (hard to seat, slowly deflates, etc)
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HammerheadFistpunch
> Highlander-Datsuns are Forever
04/16/2018 at 23:59 |
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yup.
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Highlander-Datsuns are Forever
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
04/17/2018 at 00:03 |
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I think specialized has some 26” fast tracks on sale. You will spend 30-50/ tire. And you may want to buy a second set of brake rotors so you don’t have to swap those over every time.
Out, but with a W - has found the answer
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
04/17/2018 at 00:38 |
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As others have said, get a sealant that’s not Stan’s. I’ve been thinking of changing over my road and CX/gravel bikes to tubeless, but that would mean new wheels and tires, as I don’t have a lot of confidence in the backyard conversions.
SilentButNotReallyDeadly...killed by G/O Media
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
04/17/2018 at 01:39 |
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My cross and gravel bikes both run fat ish 700c tyres and both run with tubes (either Continental or Foss, both with removable valve cores) that are each filled with about 60 to 90 ml of Vittoria Pitstop sealant. Works a treat even with impacts from caltrop/three corner jacks/fatheads etc.
Never been a Stans fan. It degrades quickly and just creates latex nodules.
kanadanmajava1
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
04/17/2018 at 03:56 |
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I have used this in one of my bikes. It did seal some of the holes but it wasn’t able to patch all. And some of these weren’t even very large. Annoying thing was that fixing any holes with regular method while this thing was inside was nearly impossible.
So I have a bit mixed feelings about this. I think it could work with some inner tube compounds but not with all.
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Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
> HammerheadFistpunch
04/17/2018 at 08:40 |
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But it’s the same idea, isn’t it? Some gooey fluid inside the tube that plugs holes?
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Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
> HammerheadFistpunch
04/17/2018 at 08:41 |
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A Stan’s pre-sealed tube would be coated on the inside?
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Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
> Highlander-Datsuns are Forever
04/17/2018 at 08:42 |
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My idea is to have wheels/rotors such that I can just do a quick swap.
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Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
> SilentButNotReallyDeadly...killed by G/O Media
04/17/2018 at 08:43 |
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Interesting. Thank you.
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Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
> Highlander-Datsuns are Forever
04/17/2018 at 08:45 |
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Based upon the comments, and what will be limited MB riding on my part, I am not going to fool with tubeless tires. Hammerhead speaks of pre-sealed innertubes by Stan’s. Do you have any experience with those?
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Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
> Out, but with a W - has found the answer
04/17/2018 at 08:46 |
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What about the pre-sealed tubes by Stan’s, as mentioned by Hammerhead?
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Highlander-Datsuns are Forever
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
04/17/2018 at 09:01 |
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If you can squirt some stans or orange seal into a tube that would be the way to go. What Hammerhead said is what I would do in your shoes. If you are riding several times a week then a tubeless set up would make more sense, a little less weight without the tube in there.
TheRealBicycleBuck
> LOREM IPSUM
04/17/2018 at 09:35 |
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I’m also a fairly big guy. I switched to a cyclocross bike so I could run 35s at a much lower pressure. It’s a lot more comfortable than 23s at 100 psi. I pulled the kids around until they got too big for the trailer, then I converted it to a flatbed.
Yeah, those are 35s with fenders. I’m both comfy and dry!
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LOREM IPSUM
> TheRealBicycleBuck
04/17/2018 at 10:42 |
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Both mine and my wifes bike have full Planet Bike fenders. Bought both bikes used, roughly a decade apart, and both just happened to come with the exact same fenders. Around here they’re an absolute must, unless you like having a wet and muddy... Everything.
I’ll have to figure out the max size I can get away with, but both of these bikes have a good deal of clearance so 35's to 40 ish should be pretty doable I’d think.
It’s been quite a while since I’ve looked into it, but any suggestions on rubber that offers good puncture resistance and low rolling resistance? My conti’s are pretty bombproof, but unless I air them to the moon they’re like riding through molasses.
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HammerheadFistpunch
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
04/17/2018 at 11:06 |
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Yeah
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TheRealBicycleBuck
> LOREM IPSUM
04/17/2018 at 12:31 |
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Any large tire is going to feel squishy. It’s the squishiness that makes them comfy. The rolling resistance really isn’t much higher. It just feels that way. I think I have Panaracers on there now. I’m really not sure since I haven’t looked at them in a long time (I haven’t had a flat on them yet). I like to ride a mountain bike for commuting duties and I’ve had great luck with inexpensive Kenda Kwest slicks .
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LOREM IPSUM
> TheRealBicycleBuck
04/17/2018 at 13:23 |
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I was perusing bike forums shortly before purchasing my wifes bike, and came across discussion of a study that showed wider tires actually managed to have less rolling resistance than skinnier ones. Completely counterintuitive to me, the opposite of what I would have expected. Could have been manufacturer propaganda though, I haven’t gone back to those forums in a while to check the latest thoughts and feels.
I’m sure there is a point of diminishing returns after a certain point when considering performance and usability, especially once you factor in weight, but it made me want to change course and go fatter instead of skinnier.
Comfort is important. Specifically why I chose steel framed bikes this time around. The whole frame acts like a bit of a spring, which I really appreciate on longer rides. My previous bike, an aluminum Specialized Hardrock with a suspension fork and Armadillos would absolutely kill me. It transmitted every bump from its frame, directly to mine. Almost kinda glad it got stolen.
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Out, but with a W - has found the answer
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
04/17/2018 at 13:29 |
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No experience, but that seems to kinda defeat the point? Most of my flat tires have been pinch flats caused by trying to run too low of a pressure, which pre-sealed tubes won’t prevent afaik. There’s plenty of puncture resistant tires if your main goal is getting no more flats.
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Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
> Highlander-Datsuns are Forever
04/17/2018 at 13:33 |
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Well, there’s NO way that a few ounces of weight matter to my lard ass and the amount of riding I do. I hear people talking Orange Seal, Stan’s and Vittoria Pit-Stop. Nobody talks about the original, Tire Slime.
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Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
> Out, but with a W - has found the answer
04/17/2018 at 13:41 |
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I fear goat heads and the like. I weigh 240 and MB ride but maybe once per month. So I need a puncture resistant, low cost tire with a good brand. Nobody has tried to talk me out of the Specialized Armadillo, at least not so far...
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Out, but with a W - has found the answer
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
04/17/2018 at 13:50 |
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Should work. I run Schwalbe Duranos in winter and no complaints there (there’s a Plus and DD version for even more protection). If you want to go extreme puncture proof, there’s always the Marathon (Plus), but don’t expect a swift ride on those.
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TheRealBicycleBuck
> LOREM IPSUM
04/17/2018 at 15:11 |
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What you read wasn’t propaganda. Spend some time reading the writings of Jobst Brandt and Sheldon Brown. Jobst was the engineer who wrote the book “The Bicycle Wheel”. Sheldon was a lifetime mechanic who wasn’t shy about sharing his knowledge. Both were a wealth of information who bucked the trends. To that auspicious group, I’d add Frank Krygowski of Bicycling Life and Mike Jacoubowsky from Chain Reaction Cycles.
Rolling resistance was just one of the topics they tackled. They also liked to talk about frame materials and vertical compliance. As they said, diamond frames are not vertically compliant unless they are specifically engineered to be so (there are some frames designed with suspension or flexible stays). Lateral compliance is a different animal. It was fun watching newbies over at the rec.bicycles.* groups get set straight by these guys when they started talking about how stiff aluminum frames were or how steel frames were so much more compliant.
As Jobst once said, the vertical compliance in a tire is several orders of magnitude greater than the vertical compliance in a frame. If you want a softer ride, just get bigger tires and use a lower pressure.
That’s why my primary road bike is an aluminum frame with big tires. My off-road frame is full-suspension. I still keep a steel-framed beater around for trips to places where I would be worried about my nicer bikes getting stolen, but I assure you, the aluminum bike is more forgiving than the steel. It isn’t the frame, it’s the tires.
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LOREM IPSUM
> TheRealBicycleBuck
04/17/2018 at 15:26 |
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I would have figured wide smooth 26" tires and a suspension fork would be more forgiving than high pressure skinnies and a completely rigid setup, but my cx bike is many orders of magnitude more comfortable. Apples to oranges though, considering the intended purpose of the bikes in question and the differences in geometry.
I still say steel is real though, lol, but advancements in aluminum framed bikes have come a long way since their inception. Glad to know they are capable of being comfy.
Sheldon Brown was pretty awesome. I am familiar with him, though he shared far more knowledge than I actually read or absorbed, and it’s been quite a while since I have paid much attention to the subject. Gonna have to head down that rabbit hole again one of these days.
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TheRealBicycleBuck
> LOREM IPSUM
04/17/2018 at 15:50 |
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“Apples to oranges though”
So true. Position on the bike is important to comfort, but most people believe sitting on their squishy bits is better than on a proper saddle. At least for the first few miles....
If I were to set up the old steel bike the same way as my aluminum bike, the only difference would be top tube clearance. Jobst recommended a side-by-side comparison with two different frames wrapped in paper. He bet that the rider couldn’t tell the difference. I think you’d have to issue earplugs too. I can hear the difference between my aluminum and steel frames.
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Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
> HammerheadFistpunch
04/20/2018 at 13:51 |
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Good morning. I got my rims in the mail yesterday. The rims are fairly narrow and my guy says 1.9 to 2.1 inch for the tires.
Am I correct that tubeless tires can be run with tubes? I really do not want to fool with learning how to deal with mounting tubeless tires.
I need to find some inexpensive MTB tires that are not an embarrassing brand and stick a tube in them, is what I am thinking. I’m not about to become a big MTB rider. Just tagging along with the young men on some training rides for their High Adventure trek later this summer.
Any thoughts?
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HammerheadFistpunch
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
04/20/2018 at 13:53 |
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Yeah, the trouble is finding some 26 inch skinnies is harder than ever these days. Since its all fat bikes and 29'er and 750 etc etc. try WTB, they seem to have a good 26 inch stock. Specialized might as well, they have a kevlar tire thats supposed to be durable. I don’t love their tires but for general purpose might be good.
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Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
> HammerheadFistpunch
04/20/2018 at 13:54 |
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What say you about
these
?
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HammerheadFistpunch
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
04/20/2018 at 14:00 |
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its my personal preference to stay away from Chinese makes (schwable, kenda, etc) The trouble is they have really bad breakaway, meaning you’ll get confident and push into a corner and then boom, they slide away completely without warning. If you never push them they will be fine. I’ve liked these before
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Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
> HammerheadFistpunch
04/20/2018 at 14:19 |
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You are a good sport to advise me on all of this; thank you.
Would you mind recommending some appropriate pre-sealed tubes for me on Amazon that would fit these 26x2.1 tires?
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Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
> HammerheadFistpunch
04/20/2018 at 15:18 |
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This stuff would be okay inside the innertube, wouldn’t it?
It sounds like you are not a fan of Slime.
There is also Vittoria’s Pit Stop and Orange Seal.
Any preferences?
Thanks again.
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HammerheadFistpunch
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
04/20/2018 at 16:04 |
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Yeah just use stand for inside a tube